As a "newbie" graphic designer (it often still feels like that anyway), there is still a lot I need to learn - a lot of which I need to teach myself... So when I am presented with something new, like binding, I go online and research.
To make things a little easier for you, let me share what I have found - then you don't have to scroll through tons of websites. You're welcome.
The two most common types of binding, and the ones you should know about as a designer, are "perfect binding" and "saddle-stitching".
The former is used for most magazines and some books. Pages are essentially glued to a spine (it is therefore punchless). The minimum thickness for this is 10mm, and the maximum is 25mm. When designing for this bind, bear in mind that the margin in the middle needs to be a bit bigger than on the outside.
Saddle-stitching entails stapling or stitching. There is no spine, and the magazine or newsletter can be laid out flat. In this instance the margin in the middle doesn't need to be as large. It is recommended that publications using saddle-stitching should not have more than 48 pages.
To make things a little easier for you, let me share what I have found - then you don't have to scroll through tons of websites. You're welcome.
The two most common types of binding, and the ones you should know about as a designer, are "perfect binding" and "saddle-stitching".
The former is used for most magazines and some books. Pages are essentially glued to a spine (it is therefore punchless). The minimum thickness for this is 10mm, and the maximum is 25mm. When designing for this bind, bear in mind that the margin in the middle needs to be a bit bigger than on the outside.
Saddle-stitching entails stapling or stitching. There is no spine, and the magazine or newsletter can be laid out flat. In this instance the margin in the middle doesn't need to be as large. It is recommended that publications using saddle-stitching should not have more than 48 pages.
So those are the important ones. There are many more, but as long as you know these, you should be fine.
Others are:
The typical wire binding or coil/spiral binding - we all know this well from our uni days. A stack of papers is bound together by a C-shaped wire or coil spine. If wire, the coil is squeezed into a round shape using one of those special machine thingies (I recently did this at the office and it was easier than it looks/sounds). The coil (most often plastic) is wound into punched holes along the entire spine.
Both the wire and coil options are an affordable way of binding copies for home or office use.
(Thermal) tape binding is a system that wraps and glues a piece of tape around the base of your document. A tape binding machine system is used for this process and it activates the thermal adhesive on the glue strip.
Hard Cover (case) binding is used for hardcover books. The pages are arranged in batches and then glued together into a textblock. The textblock is then attached to the cover or case. It's exactly like perfect binding just for thicker books (exceeding 25mm in thickness). It is also known as cloth binding or edition binding.
Comb binding uses a rectangular hole pattern punched near the bound edge. A curled plastic comb is fed through the slits to hold the sheets together (so similar to wire/coil binding but with a comb - duh).
I found this great image to better show some of these types:
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| Source: http://wftprintpm.wikispaces.com/Perfect+Binding |
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